Turkish bath: awesome! Turkish breakfast: not so much...

It was freezing in Cappadocia, much colder than on the coast.  Once the sun goes down, there isnt much to do unless you go to a Turkish bath. 

Even though the baths are heavily frequented by tourists, they are also a part of Turkish life for special occasions or for die-hard fans, just like massage studios in the States.  Us foreigners are pretty obvious, though, because we're the ones that look so clueless.  First you undress and put on your hamam towel (a giant tea towel) and head for the sauna.  Then comes the best part: you're led out to a giant 6- (or 8) sided heated marble pedestal where you lay down for a scrub (exfoliation).  Let me just say, I couldnt believe the 'exfoliate' that came off of me.  I have molted and my new skin feels amazing.  Then comes the foam scrub.  They pour mounds of lemony herby suds on you and give a massage (it is single sex, of course).  Just I was feeling pretty cooked, with the sauna and then laying on this hot marble slab, they rinse with tempid water.  After months of feeling sweaty and grimy on the boat, this was paradise.  Next, up off the table and off for a massage, where I have never been so massaged in my life.  If the massage was any firmer, I am sure I might have been disarticulated.  After all that heat, getting dressed and going back in the cold night air felt great.  That night, back in our Cappadocia cave hotel, I slept harder than ever.

I cant say as much for Turkish breakfast.  I have to say, it is healthy, but not something I would choose for a morning meal.  Feta cheese, green peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, sometimes redeemed with some plain yogurt, fresh preserves, and local honey (often with the comb included).  There is always toast (or, 'tost', which is a grilled bologna and cheese sandwich) and eggs.  It isnt that it is so bad- and it is actually more healthy and satisfying than the American sugar-on-carbohydrate combination that we're accustomed to, but you'll see the same combination for lunch, then again at dinner, albeit in different forms.  Sometimes you'll see porridge, which is great when you can find it, but that's as close as you get to Museli (which, mixed with yogurt and fruit, is my breakfast favorite at home).   You also see a lot of pomegranites and oranges, which are typically juiced.  I recommend the pomegranite-orange combination which might cost $1/glass for your anti-oxidant power boost. 

The crazy thing is about Turkey is that the topography and climate is extremely varied.  In one day, you can pass hectacres of potato growing flatlands, then you're in cotton growing country, then banana country.  In every region, you will find mountains of local produce, but only that grown in the region.  So, when in melon country, you'll see dozens of melon trucks selling melons, then in banana country you see banana sellers, and so on...  

Given great exfoliation and funky breakfasts, the Turkish people are not fat, but they do age well. 

Comments

[Nicole]

I wish I could have a Turkish bath! Sounds amazing!